Surf’s Up
“Lets Go Surfin’ now
Everybody’s learning how
Come on a safari with me…”
— The Beach Boys
Why is surfing so addictive, even if all you do is photograph it? The average ride is only about 6 seconds. The water, at least in the Pacific, is cold. The best times to surf are very early morning or early evening. Standing on a beach and holding your tripod, its often cold and windy or broiling hot. You are always cleaning sand out of your camera, your lenses and all of the other equipment. Why would one surf or spend hours photographing surfers?
Every surfer I’ve spoken with tells me that riding a wave is a breathless experience. Sitting on your board in a lineup allows you to be absolutely alone in the middle of a community. Sun, saltwater and sand are an unbeatable combination. And making a personal photograph of a surfer’s ride provides both the giver and the receiver an inestimable joy.
